Introduction

I grew up surrounded by the Himalaya Mountains on a farm near the village of Pankhongma in the Solukhubu District in Nepal, 50 kilometers south of Everest, the world’s highest peak.  Several generation of my family earned a living from the land and from a young age I worked on the farm with my father.

My village was on one of the main trekking routes to Everest and trekkers and climbers often stopped off there on the way, regularly camping in the grounds of my village.  I was just a teenager when I first met trekkers and mountaineers.   They also spoke freely about mountaineering and their experience on mountain. I was captivated and greatly inspired by their stories.

At 14 years of age, I began my own career on the mountains, working first as a porter ferrying the gear and supplies of trekking and expeditions to the mountains around my homes, and earning some money to support my family. I learned much from the older Sherpa climbers in my region, observing closely their methods and skills. After years of learning, training and researching, I became a full-time mountain guide and mountaineer, eventually one of the first Sherpas in Nepal to gain international professional accreditation by International Federation of Mountain Guide Association (IFMGA).

Gradually I enhanced my trekking and mountain guide experience in high altitude by completing multiple safe guiding above an altitude of 6,000 metres and higher in the Himalaya. I had summited Everest six times in six successive seasons and had been on several expeditions into the Death Zone, on Everest, K2, Cho-Oyu and several alpine peaks in Himalaya. Many years of experience in teaching and guiding industry has taken me all over the mountain area for work and play.

In recognition of my heroism during the K2 tragedy, I was named the National Geographic Best Adventurer of 2008. Government of Nepal conferred me Everest National Award 2009, in recognition of my great contribution for a longtime in the field of climbing and mountaineering at national and as well as international level. I also recipient of David A. Sowles Memorial Awards by American Alpine Club. I’m immediate past president of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). I live in Kathmandu with my wife Jangmu Sherpa and two children Jigmet Diki and Kunga Tashi Sherpa.

 

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